Simple Drawing for Deck Roof Plans
Patio Comprehend Plans
These patio cover plans depict how I built my own patio cover. In that location are many ways to build a patio cover; every situation is dissimilar. These plans are intended to provide you lot with some useful insight, while y'all are designing and building a patio cover for your own home.
Patio Cover Plans - Getting Started
Before I began designing the structure of my new patio comprehend, I expanded the existing 10' x 10' patio slab by pouring some other ten' ten 10' slab side by side to it, making it roughly 10' x twenty'.
Since I was planning to attach my patio comprehend to the existing roof overhang of my dwelling house, I ensured that it was capable of carrying half of the weight of the new patio encompass roof. If you lot are planning to do something like, and you are unsure of the existing framing, you can remove a section of fascia or soffit to examine the underlying structure. With the rafter tail framing exposed, you might even contact a local carpenter or structural engineer for their advice. The other half of the weight of the patio comprehend roof is carried past an outer 4x6 beam, supported past three 6x6 posts. (see the Side View diagram)
If you determine that attaching your patio cover to your roof overhang is non an option, you might consider these new well-nigh-free-standing patio cover plans (available on mycarpentry.com).
Special note: These plans are not intended to replace engineered working drawings. Local building codes can vary significantly amid the regions. Your local building lawmaking should determine the actual sizes of concrete footings, slabs, wood structural members, and fasteners to exist used. A structural engineer should determine if your existing structure is capable of supporting the additional load factors of a patio comprehend. Before beginning structure, contact your edifice permitting regime to obtain a building permit and to accept your design reviewed and then that it complies with local building codes and guidelines.
Patio Cover Plans - Pattern Factors
- Roof Blueprint Load - This is combination of the dead load (the weight of the framing material) and the live load (additional weight, like snow, etc. for your area) You can become this data from the International Building Code and from your local building code authorities.
- Roof Gradient - The roof needs to have sufficient pitch required for the type of roofing that will be used. This information can exist obtained from the roofing manufacturer.
- Rafter Size, Length and Spacing - Once you know the Roof Load and Pitch, you lot can determine the Sizes, Lengths, and Spacing of rafters, based on the Species and Grade of the lumber being used. You can use the Span Estimator, on the American Forest Quango website, to make these calculations. Try selecting the different options for Species and Spacing, etc., and compare the results.
- Beams and Posts - Once have the Design load, you tin can multiply the lbs/ft² past the length and width of the roof to determine the total weight of the roof (live and dead load).
- Footings - Soil weather vary in different locations. Areas in the far northern (and far southern) hemispheres crave deeper footings due to frost line factors. These can be determined based on the International Building Lawmaking and local building codes.
Patio Cover Plans - Structural Pattern
I didn't have to worry about snow when drawing my patio cover plans, but my two-layer plywood decking added some "dead load" to my blueprint. I had to add together that to my overall load. If continuous snow load had been a gene, I would have had to utilise 2x6 or larger rafters.
Later calculating my rafter bridge, I would have exceeded the capacity of my 2x4 rafters if I had spaced them 24" O.C.., but spacing them 16" O.C.., I was within the range of my design load.
There were a few features that I wanted to include in my patio cover design. Writing these down earlier I started sketching the pattern, and cartoon my patio comprehend plans, helped ensure that I would attain all of my goals.
- Western Red Cedar - this material is widely available in my area, and has superior resistance to disuse.
- Fiberglass shingles to lucifer the existing residence.
- Outside beam height to have a minimum of 6' eight" clearance (my personal preference).
- Covering nails should not show through the bottom of the roof decking (besides a personal preference).
- 6x6 posts (notched at the acme for the 4x6 beam).
- 4x6 axle.
- 2x4 rafters - based on my given span, spacing, and design load requirements.
A clearance of half-dozen' 8", betwixt the finished slab and the bottom of the 4x6 beam, made the pitch of my roof a fiddling less than 2/12 (2 inches of ascent for every 12 inches of run). This was slightly below the manufacturer'due south minimum recommendations. I had no issues with my roof, still, I recommend meeting or exceeding the manufacturers specifications.
To prevent the roofing nails from showing through the underside of the decking, I used two layers of 4' x eight' plywood when decking the roof. For the bottom layer of roof decking, I chose v/viii" thick T1 11 4" O.C. (for a plank-similar visual advent from the underside), and for the top layer, I used three/8" construction form (CDX) plywood. This made the roof decking thickness 1".
Patio Cover Plans - Edifice
When you are building a patio encompass off of an existing roof or wall, yous must take all of your measurements from the point at which the patio roof volition adhere to the existing construction, not the outside of the slab. The existing slab can vary considerably, throwing off crucial measurements.
Since my patio roof was going to exist attached to the existing rafter tails, I plumbed straight downwardly from the outside surface of the fascia and made a mark on the patio slab. I did this on both ends of where the roof ledger was going to attach.
Subsequently, I popped a chalk-line across the patio slab between the two marks. I used this line to establish the placement of the lesser of the 6x6 posts - they all needed to be the aforementioned distance from this line.
I planned to place the 6x6 posts about 4" from the outside edges of the physical (to prevent groovy), while keeping them the same altitude from the chalk line.
I used galvanized post anchors to secure the posts to the slab. Before securing the posts to the anchors, I cut just enough off of the bottoms of each post to make them square and let the other ends run long (to be cut to size in a later stride). I used temporary 2x4 braces to hold the posts plumb, while I determined the finished post heights.
With the posts plumbed, braced and secured to the galvanized anchors, I measured upwardly 6' eight" from the top of the slab and made a mark on the front of the heart 6x6 post.
I used a level to transfer that mark from the eye post to the two outer posts. This mark would be the height of the bottom of the 4x6 beam when installed.
Next, to determine the finished height of the posts, I measured upwards well-nigh 6" (utilise the actual meridian of the 4x6 beam) from the half-dozen' 8" marker and cutting the backlog cloth off of each post.
I notched the 6x6 posts on the outside confront so that the 4x6 beam would sit on the posts furthest from the existing structure (see diagrams). I cut the 4x6 beams so that they extend past the 2 outer posts 16" on each side. Once they were cutting, I temporarily secured the beams to the 6x6 posts with deck screws, existence conscientious non to identify them in the same location as wagon bolts. Once the beams were temporarily secured in place, I drilled two 3/8" holes on each stop of the 2 4x6 beams for the 8" x three/8" railroad vehicle bolts and installed each one (see drawings).
If y'all have washed everything perfect, the measurement from the outer beam dorsum to the existing construction should be the same at each end of the axle. If non, check the posts to make certain they are still plumb.
With the beam in place, I adamant the location of the 2x4 ledger (that would exist fastened to the business firm), using the Pythagorean Theorem. I secured the 2x4 ledger with 3.5-inch deck screws into the business firm'southward fascia, and used 8" ten 3/8" lag screws to further secure the 2x4 ledger beyond the fascia and sub fascia, into each of the existing rafter tails.
Once everything was secured and verified, I began the 16" O.C. layout for the 2x4 rafters. I cut 1 cease of each 10' rafter with a 2/12 pitch cut (nine.46 degrees) and attached it to the 2x4 ledger with 2" galvanized wood screws.
Once the rafters were in identify and secured to the 2x4 ledger and the 4x6 axle, I measured from the house along the top of ane of the end rafters and made a mark at 9' 9". I did the same on the other cease rafter and popped a chalk-line beyond the top of all of the patio cover rafter tails.
Using my Speed Square, I marked a xc° line, from the chalk line mark on each rafter, and cut end off of each ane with a circular saw. Once the rafter tails were nonetheless length, I cutting the 2x4 sub fascia and fastened it to the rafter tails with two 3 1/ii" galvanized deck screws per rafter.
Next, I installed the T1 xi plywood decking; From the sub fascia at the terminate of ane of the stop-rafters, I measured upwards along the rafter 48" and made a mark on the topside of the rafter. I did the aforementioned on the other end-rafter.
Using my Chalk Line tool, I pulled the line very tight and popped a chalk line across the tops of all of the rafters. This established a line for me to utilise as a guide for the placement of the 48" x 96" T1 11 plywood decking. I fastened the T1 11 decking to the rafters using i ane/ii galvanized woods screws.
Information technology is proficient do not to completely smash off each sheet of plywood until all of the sheets are fastened to the rafters. Nail them at the corners and at places where there is a bow (if necessary) to keep the sheets flat until they can be completed nailed/screwed in place.
There was no requirement in the building code for two layers of roof decking. This was my idea to prevent the roofing nails from poking through the underside. This was strictly done for cosmetic reasons.
To install the 2nd layer of decking, the 3/eight" CDX plywood, I measured upward from the ends of the roof 24" on each side and popped a line across (to stagger the plywood joints). I ripped two pieces of the 3/eight" plywood into two equal pieces measuring 24" x 96", and secured the kickoff course of the second layer of plywood, keeping the mill edge along the 24" chalk line.
Next, I installed 1x6 cedar fascia and 1x2 drip edge on both sides and front end of the roof. The fascia and drip border were secured with two" galvanized woods screws.
The final step of the roof frame was to install the iv diagonal braces located at each end of the 4x6 beam and the two 6x6 posts (run into the Diagonal Brace Item). Since each end of the 4x6 beam overhangs 16 inches, you can determine the length of the diagonal braces using the Pythagorean Theorem. The upshot is four 4x6's @ 22 v/eight" long from long point to long point with a 45° bevel on each end. Secure them with 3 ane/ii" galvanized deck screws.
Finally, I installed fifteen# felt on top of the ii layers of plywood and installed the fiberglass roofing to the specifications of the manufacturer.
Roofing Note: It should be noted that either a continuous menses of covering or some kind of flashing is required at the intersection between the existing roof and the new patio embrace roof (in order to prevent leaking). Follow the guidelines provided by the roofing manufacturer or your roofing contractor.
After completing the construction of these patio cover plans, I sealed all of the wood surfaces with a cedar colored wood sealer. Each sealant application turned the wood slightly darker, just afterward almost three coats (stretched out over about v years), I take non needed to re-seal the wood.
Earlier building a patio cover, please refer to the 2018 International Edifice Lawmaking for edifice codes related to patio covers.
Patio Cover Plans - FAQ
If yous have questions about my patio cover plans, have a await at some of the frequently asked questions, and my answers to each of them:
Question: If I were to use 2x6" rafters, could I increase spacing to 24" O.C..?
Reply: That depends on the design load of your roof and the span of your rafters. To determine the design load of your roof, consult your local building code. These are specific to the surface area where you live. You lot can determine the commanded spans of different rafter sizes and spacing from the Bridge Calculator past the American Wood Council.
Question: If I increase the bridge of the patio comprehend to 24' instead of 20', would I need some other column?
Reply: This depends on the size of beam you lot are using. Is it capable of carrying the extra weight? In my design, if I were to extend the width of my patio to 24', I would have needed to add an extra post.
Question: The fascia on my firm is a 2x6", would I still need a ledger or would that work?
Answer: The most important thing is to decide if your rafter tails are capable of supporting half of the total weight of your patio cover. Calculation the 2x ledger to the outside of the fascia is very important - it is the function of your patio encompass framing that is screwed to your home'south structure. I wouldn't recommend but nailing rafters into the existing fascia - you lot don't know what is behind it. If you determine that attaching your patio cover to your roof overhang is non an option, yous might consider these new nearly-free-standing patio cover plans (bachelor on mycarpentry.com).
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